Wednesday, November 2nd : Chilly at Canyon De Chelly

Today, we decided to explore the canyon. There are 2 rim drives: the north rim and the south rim. We decided to do the south rim because there are more overlooks and because there is a hiking trail down to White House ruins, the only trail down into the canyon that does not require a guide. We drove the 10 miles to the last overlook first.

Here we are with Spider Rock in the background

This was the Spider Rock Overlook where we were able to view the famous rock column protruding from the canyon floor. The canyon walls are made of that southwestern red rock and rise vertically to about 700 feet above the valley floor. The valley is very narrow, maybe only 1000 yards. The Navajo have ranches and small farms on the almost flat valley floor. A shallow river meanders thru the valley and dirt road follows it. Cottonwood trees form small groves on the valley floor and at this time of year, the leaves had turned a beautiful yellow color. Contrasting the yellow of the cottonwood trees against the red rock walls and the dark blue sky of that day made for a beautiful photo shot. It was about noon and the temperature had just inched above 40F, so we were all bundled up. From that vantage point, we could see cliff dwellings in the opposite canyon walls. I had brought along my compact binoculars, so we could get a good look at them. We turned around and drove back down the south rim road, stopping at Face Rock Overlook and Sliding house overlook, again looking at the beauty of the canyon from a different vantage point and at the cliff dwellings on the opposite canyon wall.

Jan in one of the trail tunnels

The next stop was the White House Overlook from which the trail leads down into the valley. Since none of the overlooks had toilets and we were looking at a 2 hour hike, we decided to drive back to the visitor’s center to use their facilities and then drive back. When we got back, we bumped into Steve & Diane at the overlook. They weren’t going to hike down the trail as they were more the ATV type, so we left them and headed down the trail. The canyon rim was a straight down rock cliff, so they had cut a tunnel through the rock to get the hikers through that portion. After that, the trail was a series of switch backs and a few places with steps, either cut into the rock or dirt filled with small logs holding back the dirt. Near the bottom of the trail was another tunnel, which then led to the flat valley floor. To our immediate right was a fence on which a sign read “private residence, no pictures please”. In about 1 acre of fenced in area, there was a Hogan style Navajo house, a few barnyard animals, and nothing much else, essentially a very humble household. We walked across the river, which was only a small stream now, on an iron grating bridge and then on down the river to the usual Navajo vendors selling the usual necklaces, bracelets, and rings. Not that the wares were not pretty, but they are selling these everywhere you turn.

Looking down onto the canyon floor

Twice we had a Navajo vendor knock on or trailer door wanting to sell us something. They are very polite, but persistent. Having already bought 2 necklaces, we passed on the jewelry. It was nice being in the valley as it gives you a different perspective of the canyon. We were a little disappointed because we were only able to get within about 200 feet of the ruins as there was a high wire fence keeping us at bay. There were some petroglyphs on the canyon walls near the ruins, so I took some pictures of those and of the ruins. It was sad to see that part of the ruin had graffiti written on it. When that happened and by whom, we never did find out.

Petroglyphs at The White House

Jan was anxious to get back as it was getting late in the afternoon, so we headed back without lingering any longer. Of course, the hike back was harder than the walk down and we both were breathing hard as we walked back up. Jan said afterward that she didn’t think she was going to make it, but she trooped on. I kept reminding her of the benefits of strong exercise, but I don’t think she was impressed at the time. After that, we went back to the trailer, had some dinner and crashed.

Dave in front of The White House

Some of the cliff dwellings as seen from the other side of the valley

Yellow cottonwood trees against the red rock against the blue sky: beautiful!